The benefits of hyaluronic acid in the fight against the signs of aging have been extolled...

There are countless "anti-aging" creams and serums based on hyaluronic acid. This compound, renowned for its efficacy when injected, has become a fashionable cosmetic active ingredient, generating a craze that has continued unabated for several years. There's no doubt that marketing departments have played their part in the boom in cosmetic hyaluronic acid: its performance in doctors' surgeries has given it an image of technical sophistication and a very promising "dermatological endorsement"... so much so that we sometimes forget to ask ourselves whether it can do on the outside what it does on the inside, even if we're prepared to pay quite a bit for a product containing it.

What is hyaluronic acid?

Hyaluronic acid was first identified in the 1930s. This glycosaminoglycan from the polysaccharide family is naturally present in the human body. This transparent, glassy-textured substance is found around joints, in muscles, in the eye... but the skin is the organ that contains the most.

It helps to form the connective tissue (along with, among other things, a good quantity of water) that supports the collagen and elastin fibers forming the skin's various layers. It thus plays a fundamental role in skin density and tone.

The problem is that over time, as the skin ages and is repeatedly attacked by free radicals... the level of natural hyaluronic acid tends to diminish, both in quality and, above all, in quantity. By the age of 50, we've already lost 50% of our hyaluronic acid capital! The result on the skin: dehydration, increased thinness and sagging are accentuated, with their inevitable corollaries in the form of fine lines, then wrinkles and general sagging.

How does it work?

Hyaluronic acid has a precious characteristic: it's hydrophilic. This means it attracts and retains water, like a sponge, helping to preserve skin suppleness and volume. Depending on the size of its molecules, hyaluronic acid can play several roles in cutaneous application.

- Hyaluronic acid, with its high molecular weight (1.5 million daltons) (roughly the same as that of the skin), remains on the surface of the epidermis. It boosts hydration of the skin's superficial layers, ensuring a plumping and tightening effect.

- Ultra-low-molecular-weight hyaluronic acid (6000 daltons), on the other hand, is able to penetrate the epidermal barrier to the base of the horny structure, revitalizing the skin more deeply. In this case, cutaneous application of this active ingredient would also help stimulate the synthesis of natural hyaluronic acid.

In any case, its action, while less spectacular than when injected, is real.


How is it obtained?

Hyaluronic acid is not exclusive to humans: it is also found in many living organisms. Initially, hyaluronic acid was extracted from cock's crest, the vitreous humour of the bull's eye, or even shark skin... But ingredients of animal origin don't get much press, and in this case, they're not cheap to produce. Research laboratories have therefore worked to reproduce this molecule, which today is obtained mainly through biotechnology, synthesized by bacteria or yeast fermentation. The result is a faithful copy of natural hyaluronic acid, at a much lower price, making this active ingredient more readily available to all cosmetics laboratories.


Does it have any undesirable effects?

Hyaluronic acid is sometimes not recommended for injections, particularly for "severe allergies" or autoimmune diseases, but it seems to have no undesirable side effects in cosmetics. It is well tolerated by all skin types, and does not appear to have any sensitizing potential. Reputedly safe, hyaluronic acid can also be approved by organic cosmetics charters.

So there's no reason to go without!

Synergie has formulated its hyaluronic acid serum with low-weight molecules to penetrate as deeply as possible, and it has no viscous or sticky texture. Instant effect with no more than 2 drops. In contrast, our loose powder contains larger molecules that stay on the surface to moisturize and blur fine lines.

ref. Cosmetics Observatory

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